西安一日游 · 城墙内外

西安城墙建于明代，围着老城整整一圈，周长约 13.7 公里，是国内保存最完整的一座。南门（永宁门）最热闹，早上有开城仪式表演。城墙上可以租自行车，骑一圈大约一个半到两小时；不想骑就坐电瓶车，或者在墙上慢慢走一段。

Built in the Ming dynasty, the wall encircles the old town for about 13.7 km and is the most complete surviving city wall in China. The South Gate (Yongningmen) is the liveliest, with a gate-opening ceremony in the morning. Bicycles can be rented on top and a full lap takes about 1.5–2 hours; there are also electric carts, or you can simply walk a stretch.

回民街是西安老城里回族聚居的街区，北院门是最热闹的一段。街上以清真饮食为主：肉夹馍、羊肉串、凉皮、柿子饼、酸梅汤。游客多，价格也偏高；想吃得实在一点，可以往旁边的小巷走，洒金桥、大皮院一带本地人更多。

The Muslim Quarter is the old city's Hui neighbourhood, and Beiyuanmen is its busiest stretch. The food is halal: roujiamo flatbread sandwiches, lamb skewers, cold noodles, persimmon cakes, sour plum drink. It is touristy and priced accordingly; for better value head into the side lanes — Shajinqiao and Dapiyuan have more locals.

钟楼和鼓楼都是明代建筑，一南一北隔街相望，是西安老城的地理中心。钟楼上有大钟，鼓楼上有大鼓，当年用来报时。两座楼都可以上去，站在楼上看四条大街笔直地伸向城门，是老城最好的取景角度之一。

Both towers are Ming buildings standing face to face along the same street — the geometric centre of Xi'an's old town. The Bell Tower holds a great bell, the Drum Tower a great drum, once used to announce the hours. Both can be climbed, and from the top the four main streets run dead straight to the city gates: one of the best views in the old town.

羊肉泡馍是西安的招牌：先拿两个馍，自己一点点掰成小块——掰得越碎越入味，然后交给师傅加羊肉汤煮。吃的时候配糖蒜和辣酱，再配一碗清汤。掰馍这件事本身就是当地人聊天的时间，不用着急，慢慢掰。

Yangrou paomo is Xi'an's signature dish: take two flatbreads, tear them bit by bit into small pieces — the smaller the pieces, the more the broth soaks in — then hand the bowl over to be cooked with lamb broth. It comes with sweet pickled garlic and chilli paste, plus a bowl of clear soup. The tearing is part of the ritual, and locals chat through it; take your time.

兵马俑是秦始皇陵的陪葬坑，1974 年当地农民打井时发现。现在开放三个坑：一号坑最大，陶俑成列排开，气势最足；二号坑是不同兵种的混合方阵；三号坑最小，像是当年的指挥所。每尊陶俑的脸都不一样，出土时本来有彩绘，见光后会褪色。

The terracotta warriors are the burial pits of the First Emperor's mausoleum, found in 1974 when farmers were digging a well. Three pits are open: Pit No.1 is the largest, its figures drawn up in ranks and the most impressive; Pit No.2 is a mixed formation of different corps; Pit No.3, the smallest, looks like a command post. Every face is different, and the figures were painted when unearthed — the colour fades on contact with light and air.

大雁塔建于唐代，是玄奘法师为存放从印度带回的经书而建，塔身七层，可以登塔。塔北广场面积很大，晚上有音乐喷泉表演，是本地人晚饭后散步最常来的地方；赶上场次，人多但很热闹。

The pagoda was built in the Tang dynasty by the monk Xuanzang to house scriptures brought back from India. It has seven storeys and can be climbed. The north square in front is huge and hosts a musical fountain in the evening — one of the most popular places for locals to stroll after dinner. Catch a session and it is crowded but lively.

大唐不夜城是一条南北向的步行街，主题是唐代风格：仿古建筑、灯笼、雕塑，加上路边的舞蹈和乐器表演，全部免费看。节假日人非常多，走一段要慢慢挪；街上和小巷里都有小吃、文创店。

Tang Paradise is a north–south pedestrian street styled after the Tang dynasty: period-style buildings, lanterns and sculptures, with dance and instrumental performances along the way, all free. On holidays it is packed and you move at a shuffle; snacks and design shops fill the street and its side alleys.

永兴坊把陕西各地小吃集中到一条街上：粉汤羊血、葫芦头、油泼面、甑糕，还有游客爱玩的「摔碗酒」。地方不大，一圈走下来能尝到好几样，适合当天最后一个站点，吃完离地铁站也近。

Yongxingfang gathers snacks from all over Shaanxi into one street: lamb-blood noodle soup, Hulutou pork soup, oil-splashed noodles, steamed glutinous rice cake — and the bowl-smashing wine tourists like to try. It is small: one loop gets you several tastings, it works well as the last stop, and the subway is close by when you finish.