杭州一日游 · 西湖与茶山

断桥在西湖白堤的东头，名字来自冬天下雪时桥面积雪先化、看着像断了一段。清晨这里人少，湖面平静，远处能看到保俶塔。沿白堤往西走大约一公里，两边都是柳树和荷花，是西湖最经典的一段路。

The Broken Bridge sits at the east end of the Bai Causeway; its name comes from winter, when snow melts on its span first and it seems to break in two. Early morning is quiet, the lake still, the Baochu Pagoda visible in the distance. The causeway runs west about a kilometre between willows and lotus — the classic stretch of West Lake.

苏堤是横穿西湖的一条长堤，长约三公里，中间种着桃树和柳树，六座小桥一座接一座。走完大概一小时，骑车二十来分钟。堤南端是花港观鱼公园，池塘里养着很多红鲤鱼。累了可以在堤边的长椅上坐一会儿。

The Su Causeway runs across West Lake for about three kilometres, planted with peach and willow, its six small bridges stepping one after another. The whole walk takes about an hour, or twenty minutes by bike. At the southern end is Flower Harbour, a park with pools full of red carp. Benches along the causeway are good for a rest.

雷峰塔在西湖的南岸，原有古塔早已倒塌，现在看到的是在原址上重建的，塔里还保留着旧塔的遗迹。坐电梯或走楼梯上到顶层，可以俯瞰整个西湖和苏堤、白堤两条长堤。傍晚塔身会亮灯，从对岸看过来像一座金塔。

Leifeng Pagoda stands on the lake's south shore; the original toppled long ago and today's tower is a reconstruction over the old foundations, whose remains are kept inside. A lift or stairs leads to the top, where the whole lake and the two causeways spread out below. At dusk the pagoda lights up and looks like a tower of gold from across the water.

西湖醋鱼是杭州的头牌菜：整条鱼浇上酸甜的糖醋汁，鱼肉很嫩。常见搭配是龙井虾仁——用新茶炒的河虾仁，清清爽爽。两个人一般点一条鱼、一盘虾仁、一个青菜加一碗汤正好。杭州菜整体偏甜，不习惯可以先尝一口再决定要不要加米饭。

West Lake vinegar fish is Hangzhou's headline dish: a whole fish under a sour-sweet sauce, the flesh very tender. It usually comes with Longjing shrimp — river shrimp stir-fried with fresh tea leaves. For two, one fish, one shrimp, a green vegetable and a soup is about right. Hangzhou cooking leans sweet; taste before deciding on rice.

灵隐寺在山里，是杭州最古老的寺庙之一。进寺之前要先经过飞来峰：小溪边的石壁上刻着许多古代佛像，大大小小一路排开。寺里香火很旺，殿宇一层层往上排，走到后面能看到山景。整个逛下来大约两个多小时。

Lingyin Temple sits in the hills and is among the oldest in Hangzhou. Before the temple you pass Feilai Peak: beside the stream, ancient Buddhas are carved into the rock face, large and small, all the way along. The temple itself is busy with incense, its halls rising tier on tier, with hill views at the back. Allow a little over two hours.

龙井村四面是茶山，山坡上一层层茶树排得很整齐。清明前后是采茶的季节，能看见茶农背着竹篓在坡上摘芽。村里很多人家自己炒茶、自己卖，可以坐下喝一杯当年的新茶，也能买一点带走。走一走茶山步道，空气里都是茶香。

Longjing village is hedged on all sides by tea hills, the bushes terraced in neat rows. Around Qingming it is picking season, and you can watch growers with bamboo baskets taking the buds. Many families pan and sell their own tea — sit for a cup of this year's leaf and take some home. Walk the terrace paths and the air smells of tea.

河坊街是一条步行老街，两边是仿古的建筑，老字号、中药铺、绸布店、手工艺品店挤在一起。街上有现做的小吃，也有吹糖人、画糖画这类手艺摊。往旁边的小巷拐进去，能找到胡庆余堂这类老药铺，房子很有味道。

Hefang Street is an old pedestrian street with period-style buildings, packed with time-honoured shops, pharmacies, silk dealers and craft studios. There are snacks made on the spot and craftsmen blowing sugar figures or painting sugar pictures. Turn into the side lanes for places like the Huqingyutang pharmacy, whose old halls are worth a look.

湖滨在西湖的东岸，晚上有音乐喷泉表演：几十道水柱跟着音乐高低起落，灯光打上去是彩色的。表演一般每晚固定几场，每场十几分钟，湖边围栏前站满人。看完可以沿湖边走一段，夜里湖上还有游船亮着灯。

Hubin is the east shore of West Lake, where an evening music fountain plays: dozens of jets rising and falling with the music, lit in colour. Shows run a few times each night, about fifteen minutes each, and the railing fills up. Afterwards walk along the shore — boats still drift out on the lit lake.