南京一日游 · 城门与梧桐

明孝陵是明代开国皇帝朱元璋的陵墓，在钟山南边，是这一带最早的一处世界文化遗产。最有名的是神道：八百米的路上立着狮子、骆驼、大象这些石兽，还有一排石人，一站就是六百多年。秋天神道两边的树会变色，配着石像特别好看。

Ming Xiaoling is the tomb of Zhu Yuanzhang, founding emperor of the Ming, on the south side of Zhongshan — the earliest World Heritage site in the area. Its star is the spirit way: eight hundred metres of stone lions, camels and elephants, then a row of stone officials, standing for six centuries. In autumn the trees along it turn colour, which sets the figures off beautifully.

中山陵在钟山南麓，1929 年建成，依山势从下往上排开：蓝色的屋顶、白色的墙面，从牌坊到祭堂是一条几百级的长台阶，越往上视野越开阔。登到顶上可以回看整片树林和南京城的轮廓。整座建筑群对称严整，是近代建筑的经典。

The mausoleum stands on the southern slope of Zhongshan, completed in 1929 and laid out up the hill: blue roofs and white walls, a long flight of several hundred steps from the archway up to the memorial hall, opening out as you climb. From the top you look back over woodland and the outline of the city. Strictly symmetrical, it is a classic of modern Chinese architecture.

南京人爱吃鸭：盐水鸭是切成一盘冷吃的，皮白肉嫩、咸鲜不腻；鸭血粉丝汤是热汤，里面有鸭血、鸭肠、鸭肝和粉丝，撒上香菜，配着吃正好。这两样在街边小店和夫子庙一带都能吃到，价格不高，本地人当日常饭。

Nanjing is a duck city: salted duck is sliced cold, skin pale, flesh tender, salty and savoury without being greasy; duck-blood vermicelli is a hot soup with duck blood, intestine and liver over glass noodles, finished with coriander. Both turn up in small street shops and around Confucius Temple, inexpensive and eaten daily by locals.

南京博物院是国内最早的一批博物馆之一，主体是一排仿古大殿，中间是历史馆，按时间从远古一路排到近代，青铜、瓷器、书画都有。馆里还有民国馆等专题展区，逛起来像走进一条老街。慢慢看要三个小时以上，只看重点一个半小时也够。

The Nanjing Museum is among the earliest in the country; its main run of period-style halls holds the history galleries, arranged chronologically from prehistory to modern times, with bronzes, porcelain and painting. There are also themed sections, one of which feels like wandering an old street. A thorough visit takes three hours or more; the highlights, an hour and a half.

夫子庙一带是南京最热闹的老街区，一条秦淮河从中穿过。河边有贡院、江南贡院博物馆这些老建筑，街上小吃店和文创店很多。晚上两岸亮起灯，可以坐画舫游河，从水上看两岸的倒影和桥。人多但热闹，适合慢慢逛。

The Confucius Temple quarter is Nanjing's busiest old district, with the Qinhuai River running through. Old buildings like the imperial examination hall stand along the water, and the streets are thick with snack shops and design stores. At night lanterns light both banks and painted boats drift along — the reflections and bridges seen from the water. Crowded but lively, and made for wandering.

老门东在中华门城墙的东边，是一片整修过的老宅街区：青砖小瓦、马头墙，巷子不宽但收拾得很干净。这里是南京小吃最集中的地方，鸭油酥饼、糖芋苗、小笼包都能吃到。傍晚灯笼亮起来，走在青石板路上很舒服，也离城墙很近，可以顺路上去看看。

Laomendong sits east of the Zhonghua Gate wall — a restored quarter of grey-brick houses with stepped gables, its lanes narrow but immaculate. It is where Nanjing's snacks gather: duck-fat pastries, sweet taro soup, soup dumplings. At dusk the lanterns come on and the flagstone lanes are a pleasure, and the wall is close enough to climb after.

玄武湖在南京城北，城墙和湖水挨着，是城里的一个大公园。湖边的台城段城墙可以上去走一段，一边是湖水，一边是城里的楼，视野很好。晚上湖边灯光亮起来，沿湖步道很长，散步的人不少，夏天还有荷花。

Xuanwu Lake lies in the city's north, the wall and the water side by side in a large urban park. The Taicheng stretch of wall can be walked: lake on one side, city buildings on the other, with a wide view. At night the shore lights up and the lakeside path stretches far, popular with evening walkers; lotuses bloom in summer.

颐和路一带是南京有名的老街区，路两边全是几十年的大梧桐，把整条街罩在树影里。街区内有一百多栋风格各异的老房子，围墙、院门、小楼都保存得很好。夜里这条路很安静，路灯透过树叶洒下来，是散步收尾的好地方。附近还有书店和小咖啡馆。

The Yihe Road area is one of Nanjing's best-known old quarters: decades-old plane trees arch over the street, shading it end to end. Inside are more than a hundred old houses of varied styles, their walls, gates and villas well kept. At night the street is quiet, lamps filtering through the leaves — a good place to end a day. Bookshops and small cafés are nearby.