成都一日游 · 熊猫与茶馆

基地在成都北郊，从市中心打车约四十到五十分钟，也可以坐地铁再转公交。熊猫上午最活跃：吃竹子、爬树、打闹；十点以后大多开始睡。园里还有月亮产房、太阳产房看幼崽，以及散养的小熊猫（红熊猫）。

The base sits in Chengdu's northern suburbs, forty to fifty minutes by taxi from the centre, or subway plus bus. Pandas are at their best in the morning — eating bamboo, climbing, tumbling about; after ten o'clock most of them sleep. There are also nursery houses for cubs and a semi-wild area for red pandas.

宽窄巷子由宽巷子、窄巷子、井巷子三条并排的老街组成，院落大多是清代留下来的。宽巷子的院子大气，窄巷子店铺多，井巷子更市井。这里能喝茶、看变脸、买手作，也能吃到钟水饺、龙抄手这类成都小吃。

Kuanzhai is three parallel old streets — Wide Lane, Narrow Lane and Well Lane — whose courtyards mostly date from the Qing dynasty. Wide Lane has the grandest courtyards, Narrow Lane the densest shops, Well Lane the most everyday feel. You can drink tea, watch face-changing, buy handmade things, and eat Chengdu snacks such as Zhong dumplings and Longchaoshou wontons.

成都火锅以麻辣著称，锅底多用牛油，配香油蒜泥碟。怕辣就点鸳鸯锅：一半红汤、一半清汤，两边分开涮。常见必点：毛肚、黄喉、鸭肠、嫩牛肉、素菜拼盘。毛肚涮七八秒就能吃，煮久了会老。

Chengdu hotpot is famous for its numbing heat; the broth is usually beef tallow, and the dip is sesame oil with minced garlic. If you cannot take chilli, order a yuanyang pot — half red, half clear. Usual orders: tripe, pork aorta, duck intestine, tender beef and a plate of vegetables. Tripe needs only seven or eight seconds — any longer and it turns rubbery.

人民公园是成都人下午的客厅。鹤鸣茶社是园里最有名的老茶馆：竹椅一坐，点一碗花茶，可以坐一下午，服务员会不停来续水。园里还有掏耳朵的师傅，用长长的一套工具，是成都独有的一项老手艺，很多人专程来试一次。

People's Park is Chengdu's afternoon living room. Heming is the best-known old teahouse inside: sink into a bamboo chair, order a bowl of jasmine tea, and you can sit all afternoon while staff keep topping up the water. Ear-cleaners work the park too, with a long set of tools — a Chengdu speciality people come from far away to try once.

武侯祠是纪念三国时期蜀汉丞相诸葛亮的祠庙，和刘备的惠陵连在一起，是国内影响最大的一处三国遗迹。园里竹影很深，后园那段红墙夹道是拍照最多的地方；对三国故事有兴趣的话，请一位讲解会看得明白得多。

Wuhou Shrine honours Zhuge Liang, chancellor of the Shu Han state in the Three Kingdoms period, and adjoins the tomb of Liu Bei; it is the most important Three Kingdoms site in China. Bamboo throws deep shade through the grounds, and the red-wall passage in the rear garden is the most photographed spot. If the Three Kingdoms stories interest you, a guide makes a great deal more sense of it.

锦里是武侯祠旁边的一条仿古街，不大，但晚上灯笼一挂很好看。街上以小吃和手工艺为主：糖画、皮影、蜀锦、竹编。吃的东西偏游客向，尝个新鲜就好，正餐建议还是回市区吃。

Jinli is a period-style street beside the Wuhou Shrine. It is small, but with the lanterns lit it looks wonderful at night. Snacks and crafts dominate: sugar painting, shadow puppets, Shu brocade, bamboo weaving. The food is aimed at visitors — fine for a taste, but keep the real meal for town.

串串香是把食材穿在竹签上放进红汤里煮，吃完按签子数量结账，比火锅随意。想尝正经川菜，可以点麻婆豆腐、回锅肉、宫保鸡丁、夫妻肺片，再来一碗米饭。川菜看着红，其实不少菜只是香，不一定很辣。

Chuanchuan is hotpot on sticks: ingredients are threaded onto bamboo skewers, cooked in the red broth, and you pay by counting the skewers at the end — more casual than a full hotpot. For proper Sichuan dishes, order mapo tofu, twice-cooked pork, kung pao chicken or fuqi feipian (beef in chilli oil), with a bowl of rice. Sichuan food looks fiery but plenty of dishes are aromatic rather than hot.

九眼桥一带是成都锦江边最热闹的夜生活区。桥上是看夜景的好位置：两岸灯火、水里的倒影，加上沿江的酒吧和小酒馆。想安静就走桥两边的江边步道，想热闹就进酒吧街；有夜游船的话也可以坐一段。

The Jiuyanqiao stretch is the liveliest nightlife area on the Jinjiang. The bridge is the place to stand for the view — lights on both banks and their reflection in the water, with bars and small taverns along the river. Take the riverside walkway for quiet, the bar strip for noise, and a night cruise if one is running.