上海一日游 · 外滩与弄堂

外滩是黄浦江西岸的一条江边大道，一边是上世纪二三十年代留下的各国风格老建筑，另一边隔江就是陆家嘴。清早来最舒服：江边有人跑步、打太极、放风筝，光线也最适合拍照。沿江步道大约一公里多，从头走到尾二十分钟，慢慢逛一个小时也够。

The Bund is a riverside promenade on the west bank of the Huangpu: on one side, the 1920s and 30s buildings of a dozen architectural styles; on the other, Lujiazui across the water. Early morning is best — people jog, practise tai chi and fly kites, and the light is ideal for photos. The promenade runs a little over a kilometre; twenty minutes end to end, or an hour at an easy pace.

南京路步行街从外滩一直往西，街上只走行人，两边是老字号和大商场。街上偶尔能看见观光小火车「铛铛车」慢慢开过。想吃点心可以拐进旁边的老字号，鲜肉月饼、糕点都能买到。往西走到底就是人民广场。

Nanjing Road runs west from the Bund as a pedestrian-only street, time-honoured shops and department stores on both sides, with the occasional sightseeing tram rumbling past. Duck into the old shops for a savoury mooncake or pastry. At its western end you reach People's Square.

豫园是明代留下的江南园林，亭台、假山、池塘挤在不大的一片地里，最有名的是九曲桥和湖心亭。园子外面是城隍庙一带，街巷里全是小吃店和卖小玩意儿的摊子，人非常多。想安静看园子就早点来，逛小吃街则越晚越热闹。

Yu Garden is a Ming-dynasty Jiangnan garden: pavilions, rockeries and ponds packed into a small space, best known for the zigzag bridge and the mid-lake pavilion. Outside its walls, the City God Temple quarter is dense with snack shops and stalls. Come early to see the garden quietly; the snack lanes get livelier the later it gets.

小笼包是上海最有名的点心：皮很薄，里面包着肉馅和一兜热汤，吃的时候先咬一小口把汤吸掉，再蘸一点醋。通常一笼六到八个，配一碗蛋皮汤或小馄饨。豫园一带的老店最有名，排队也最长；想省时间，很多街边店其实也很好吃。

Xiaolongbao are Shanghai's signature snack: a very thin skin around pork and a mouthful of hot soup. Nip a small hole first, sip the soup, then dip in vinegar. A steamer holds six to eight, best with an egg-skin soup or small wontons. The famous old houses near Yu Garden queue longest — plenty of small shops are just as good and much quicker.

田子坊是一片老弄堂改出来的小店区，石库门房子挤在一起，巷子又窄又绕，里面是手工艺品店、咖啡馆和小画廊。往里走几站是新天地，同样是石库门老房子，但改造得更整齐，餐厅和咖啡馆更多。两个地方都适合下午慢慢逛。

Tianzifang is a block of old lanes turned into small shops: shikumen houses packed together, the alleys narrow and winding, full of craft studios, cafés and little galleries. A few stops away is Xintiandi — also shikumen, but tidied up, with more restaurants and cafés. Both suit a slow afternoon.

武康路一带是上海有名的老洋房街区，路两边全是高大的梧桐树，树荫把整条街罩住。路边有老别墅、小洋楼，也有咖啡馆、面包店和设计师小店。武康大楼是最出名的转角楼，很多人在这里拍照。傍晚光线斜下来的时候最好看。

The Wukang Road area is Shanghai's classic villa quarter: tall plane trees arch over the street, shading it end to end. Behind them are old villas, small houses, and plenty of cafés, bakeries and design shops. The Wukang Mansion is the famous wedge-shaped corner block where everyone stops to shoot. Late afternoon, with the light coming in low, is the best time.

陆家嘴是黄浦江东岸的高楼区，几座很高的塔楼都聚在这里，有的带观景台，上去能俯瞰整条外滩和市区的屋顶。楼与楼之间有天桥连着，走起来不用过马路。傍晚上来最好：先看白天的江，再等华灯亮起。

Lujiazui is the tower district on the east bank, where the tallest buildings cluster — several have observation decks looking back over the whole Bund and the city's rooftops. Skywalks link the buildings so you need not cross a road. Come up at dusk: see the river by daylight, then watch the lights come on.

夜游船从外滩或陆家嘴的码头上船，沿黄浦江开一段，一边是老建筑，一边是高楼，两岸的灯都亮着，倒影在水面上拉得很长。航程一般四十到六十分钟，有普通舱和带餐的班次。想拍好照片，上船后往船尾或上层走，视野更开阔。

Night boats leave from piers at the Bund or in Lujiazui and run a stretch of the Huangpu, old buildings on one side and towers on the other, both banks lit, reflections stretching long on the water. The ride is usually forty to sixty minutes, with plain and dinner cruises. For photos, head to the stern or the upper deck for the widest view.