平遥一日游 · 古城与票号

平遥城墙建于明代，周长六千多米，有七十二座敌楼、三千个垛口，是现存最完整的古代县城城墙之一。从南门或迎薰门上城，沿着墙顶走一段，一边是密密麻麻的青灰屋顶，一边是护城河，古城「龟城」的格局一眼看得清楚。城墙上有瓮城、角楼，喜欢看古建的人会走得很慢。

Built in the Ming dynasty, the Pingyao wall runs over six kilometres, with seventy-two watchtowers and three thousand battlements — one of the most complete town walls surviving in China. Climb up at the south or Yingxun gate and walk a stretch: on one side the dense grey-tiled roofs, on the other the moat, and the 'turtle city' plan of the old town is clear at a glance. With its barbicans and corner towers, it is slow going for anyone who loves old architecture.

日昇昌票号创办于清道光三年（一八二三年），是中国第一家专营汇兑、存放款业务的私人金融机构，鼎盛时在全国有三十多家分号。进了大门，前院是柜台、账房，后院是掌柜的住处，屋里摆着当年的账册、汇票和算盘。讲解会说到「汇通天下」这四个字怎么来的，也会讲票号怎么用密码和暗号防伪，很有意思。

Rishengchang was founded in 1823, in the third year of the Daoguang reign, as China's first private institution devoted to remittance and deposit business, with more than thirty branches at its height. Inside, the front courtyard holds the counters and accounts office, the rear the manager's quarters, with ledgers, drafts and abacuses of the day on display. The commentary explains where the phrase 'remit across the world' came from, and how the bank used codes and secret marks against forgery — genuinely interesting.

平遥古城的「明清街」指南大街一带，两边是保存完好的明清店铺：绸缎庄、当铺、药铺、镖局，还有卖推光漆器、平遥牛肉、太谷饼的老字号。青砖灰瓦、红灯笼、木招牌一路排开，是古城最有味道的地方。慢慢逛、进店看看，也能顺手把伴手礼买了。

Pingyao's 'Ming-Qing Street' means the South Street area, lined with well-preserved Ming-Qing shopfronts: silk shops, pawnshops, apothecaries and escort agencies, alongside old firms selling polished lacquerware, Pingyao beef and Taigu cakes. Grey brick, red lanterns and wooden signs run the length of it — the most atmospheric part of the old town. Wander slowly, step into the shops, and pick up gifts along the way.

平遥面食和肉都很实在：平遥牛肉是腌过再煮的酱牛肉，颜色红亮、肥而不腻，切开就能吃；碗托是用荞麦面蒸成的小吃，切条加醋和辣椒；栲栳栳是把莜面搓成卷、蒸熟蘸汁吃；还有猫耳朵、刀削面。山西人爱吃醋，桌上那壶老陈醋别忘了倒。冬天来一碗热乎的过油肉或碗托，很舒服。

Pingyao's food is hearty: Pingyao beef is cured and then braised, glossy red and rich without being greasy, sliced and eaten cold; wantuo is a steamed buckwheat snack, cut into strips and dressed with vinegar and chilli; kaolaolao is rolled oat noodles, steamed and dipped in sauce; there are also cat's-ear and knife-shaved noodles. Shanxi people love vinegar — do not forget the jug of aged vinegar on the table. In winter a hot bowl of oiled pork or wantuo is a comfort.

平遥县衙是现存规模最大、保存最完整的古代县衙之一，从大门、仪门、大堂、二堂一直到后花园，一整套都在。每天有定时的「县太爷升堂」表演：穿官服、击堂鼓、审案子，逗得游客直笑。院里还能看到刑具、监狱和以前的告示，能想象出当年的衙门生活。

The Pingyao county court is among the largest and most complete surviving, from the main gate and ceremonial gate to the great hall, the second hall and the rear garden — the whole set is intact. There are scheduled performances of the 'magistrate holding court': robes, drum and a case being judged, to the visitors' amusement. Instruments of punishment, a jail and old notices remain, letting you picture life in a yamen.

古时票号负责汇兑银两，贵重货物和现银的长途运输就得靠镖局。平遥的镖局博物馆保留着当年的练武场、镖车、镖旗和兵器，讲镖师怎么走镖、怎么喊号、遇到劫匪怎么办。看完票号再看镖局，晋商的生意网络就完整了：一边是账本和汇票，一边是刀枪和兄弟。

In the old days the draft banks handled remittances while the long-distance transport of goods and silver fell to the escort agencies. Pingyao's escort museum keeps the training yard, escort carts, banners and weapons, explaining how the escorts travelled, called their signals and faced bandits. Seeing the banks and then the escorts completes the picture of the Shanxi merchant network: ledgers and drafts on one side, blades and sworn brothers on the other.

《又见平遥》是导演王潮歌的作品，讲平遥票号、镖局和晋商的一段往事。观众不走寻常路：没有固定座位，跟着演员在不同场景里走，一会儿在镖局的院子里，一会儿在街头，一会儿又被叫到「选妻」的厅堂。灯光、音乐、舞台都很讲究，看完对平遥的理解会深不少。旺季一定要提前订票。

'See Pingyao Again' is by the director Wang Chaoge and tells of the draft banks, the escorts and the Shanxi merchants. The audience does not sit still: with no fixed seats you follow the actors through scene after scene — now an escort's courtyard, now a street, now a hall where a bride is chosen. Lighting, music and staging are finely done, and you leave understanding Pingyao far better. In season, book well ahead.

夜里古城安静下来，红灯笼一盏一盏亮着，石板路被灯光照得发亮，正是散步的时候。平遥的老客栈多是明清院子改的，睡的是土炕，院子里摆着石桌石凳。回到客栈，喝一碗热乎的油茶或小米粥，跟老板聊聊天，把这天慢慢收住。

At night the old town quiets down, lanterns lighting one by one and the flagstones shining, the perfect time for a walk. Most old inns here are converted Ming-Qing courtyards with brick beds and stone tables in the yard. Back at the inn, a hot bowl of oil tea or millet porridge and a chat with the owner bring the day gently to a close.