丽江一日游 · 古城与雪山

大水车在大研古城的北口，是丽江最出名的地标，几乎所有人的照片里都有它。旁边就是古城的入口，进去是新华街，一路是店铺、客栈和小河。古城不收门票，但进玉龙雪山、木府这些景点要单独买票。这里的水是从玉龙雪山流下来的，穿城而过，石板路跟着水走。

The waterwheel stands at the northern gate of Dayan Old Town, the most famous landmark in Lijiang and in almost everyone's photos. Beside it is the entrance to the old town, opening onto Xinhua Street, lined with shops, guesthouses and a little canal. The old town itself is free; sights like the snow mountain and Mu Mansion charge separately. The water here runs down from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and threads through the town, and the flagstone lanes follow it.

木府是明清时期纳西族木氏土司的府邸，占地很大，沿中轴一路往上是大殿、万卷楼、玉音楼，最后能上到狮子山半山，俯瞰整个古城。这里见证了纳西族和中央王朝几百年的往来，也是电视剧《木府风云》的取景地。院子一层层往上走，越到后面视野越好，能看到古城层层叠叠的青瓦屋顶。

The Mu Mansion was the residence of the Naxi Mu chieftains in the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is large, rising along a central axis past the main hall, the Ten-Thousand-Volume Tower and the Yuyin Tower to the lower slopes of Lion Hill, overlooking the whole old town. It bears witness to centuries of exchange between the Naxi and the central court, and was a filming location for a television drama. The courtyards climb step by step, and the higher you go the better the view over the tiers of grey-tiled roofs.

四方街是古城最中心的广场，几条主街在这里交汇，旧时是茶马古道的集散地。白天有摆摊的、卖手鼓和东巴纸的、写东巴文的，晚上纳西人会在这里围着圈跳「打跳」，游客也能加入。周围小巷四通八达，往里走就是各种客栈、咖啡馆和小吃摊，很容易转着转着就迷路——记住「顺水进城、逆水出城」。

Sifang Square is the central plaza of the old town, where several main streets meet; in the past it was a Tea Horse Road trading post. By day there are stalls selling hand drums, Dongba paper and Dongba script; at night the Naxi dance in a circle here, and visitors may join. Little lanes branch off in every direction, full of guesthouses, cafés and snack stalls, and it is easy to wander and lose your way — remember, follow the water in, against it out.

丽江的腊排骨是把猪排骨腌好风干，再和土豆、西红柿、豆芽一起煮成火锅，汤鲜、肉香，配本地的蘸水，越煮越入味。配菜可以加鸡豆凉粉（一种豌豆做的凉粉）、丽江粑粑（烤的饼）、野生菌。口味偏咸鲜，第一次吃可以点微辣的蘸水。古城里和象山市场一带都有，人均不贵。

Lijiang's cured ribs are salted and air-dried, then simmered into a hotpot with potato, tomato and bean sprouts — a rich broth and fragrant meat, best with the local dipping sauce, getting better the longer it cooks. Sides include chickpea jelly, Lijiang flatbread and wild mushrooms. The flavour is salty and savoury; first-timers might ask for a mild dipping sauce. You will find it in the old town and around Xiangshan market, at a modest price.

玉龙雪山是北半球最南的大雪山，主峰海拔五千五百多米，终年积雪。景区里坐大索道能到四千五百米的冰川公园，可以近距离看冰川和雪峰；再往下是云杉坪、牦牛坪两条索道。山脚甘海子一带有一片蓝绿色的水，叫蓝月谷，水色随光线变化，很上镜。海拔高，上山前最好买瓶氧气，动作放慢，感觉头晕就停下来。

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is the southernmost great snow mountain in the northern hemisphere, its main peak above 5,500 metres and snow-covered all year. The big cable car reaches the glacier park at 4,500 metres, close to ice and snow peaks; two smaller cars go to Yunshan and Yak meadows. At the foot, around Ganhaizi, lies a stretch of blue-green water called Blue Moon Valley, whose colour shifts with the light and photographs beautifully. The altitude is high, so buy a can of oxygen before you go up, move slowly, and stop if you feel dizzy.

束河古镇在大研西北几公里，也是茶马古道上的老驿站，比大研安静得多，溪水从中间穿过，两边是老屋、石桥、小院。这里有很多手工艺店、咖啡馆和小客栈，节奏慢，适合黄昏慢慢走。青龙桥、四方听音广场、茶马古道博物馆都值得一看。晚上灯亮起来，比大研清静，很多人更喜欢住这里。

Shuhe lies a few kilometres north-west of Dayan, also an old Tea Horse Road post, and much quieter: a stream runs through its middle, lined with old houses, stone bridges and small courtyards. It has many craft shops, cafés and little guesthouses, slow-paced and good for a dusk stroll. Qinglong Bridge, the Sifang Tingyin square and the Tea Horse Road museum are worth a look. When the lights come on it is calmer than Dayan, and many prefer to stay here.

黑龙潭在古城北边，象山脚下，一潭碧水，天气好的时候能看到玉龙雪山倒映在水面上，是丽江最有名的拍照点。潭边有得月楼、五凤楼、古戏台这些老建筑，还有一座东巴文化博物馆。傍晚光线柔和，人也少一些，慢慢走到潭的另一头，换个角度看雪山。

Black Dragon Pool lies north of the old town at the foot of Xiangshan, a pool of clear water that on a clear day mirrors Jade Dragon Snow Mountain — the most famous photo spot in Lijiang. Around it stand old buildings — Deyue Tower, Wufeng Tower, an old stage — and a Dongba culture museum. At dusk the light is soft and the crowds thin; walk to the far side for a different angle on the peak.

夜里的大研古城比白天更有味道：四方街一带的灯笼和红伞亮起来，酒吧街传出歌声，新华街、五一街的小店里卖着鲜花饼、牦牛肉干、手工银饰。不想热闹就往小巷里钻，安静得只剩流水声。找一家临水的茶馆坐坐，点一壶普洱茶，一天就走完了。注意古城夜里也很多人，看管好随身物品。

Dayan is more atmospheric at night: lanterns and red umbrellas glow around Sifang Square, songs drift from the bar street, and the little shops of Xinhua and Wuyi streets sell flower cakes, yak jerky and handmade silverware. To avoid the crowd, slip into the lanes, where only the water can be heard. Sit at a tea house by the water with a pot of Pu'er, and the day is done. Note that the old town is busy at night too, so keep an eye on your belongings.