喀什一日游 · 老城与巴扎

喀什古城的东门是老城的正式入口，每天上午有一场「开城仪式」：鼓乐、歌舞、盛装的表演者从城门里出来，欢迎四方来客，是很多游客到喀什的第一站。进了城门就是老城的巷子，土黄色的土墙、雕花的木门、挂在门口的葡萄藤，一转弯就是另一条小巷。古城里住着很多本地人，既是景区也是生活区，逛的时候轻声一点、别乱拍人家的门。

The east gate is the formal entrance to the old town, and every morning there is an 'opening ceremony' — drums, song and dance, costumed performers coming out to welcome visitors, for many the first stop in Kashgar. Inside, the lanes begin: ochre earth walls, carved wooden doors, grapevines over doorways, another alley around every turn. Many locals live here — it is both a sight and a neighbourhood — so keep your voice down and do not photograph people's doorways without asking.

高台民居在老城东北的一处黄土高崖上，是喀什最老的居住区之一，房子依着崖势一层层往上盖，有的跨在巷子上方，形成「过街楼」。巷子很窄，最窄的两人相遇要侧身。这里曾是手艺人的聚居地，做陶的、做铜器的、打馕的都有。老居民搬走后，部分区域做了保护和展示，能看到维吾尔族老民居的样子。

The Gaotai houses sit on an earthen bluff north-east of the old town, one of Kashgar's oldest residential quarters: houses built up the slope tier by tier, some spanning the lanes above to form 'street-crossing rooms'. The alleys are narrow — at the tightest, two people pass only sideways. It was once home to craftsmen — potters, coppersmiths, naan-bakers — and after the old residents moved out, parts were preserved and opened up so you can see the look of old Uyghur houses.

艾提尕尔清真寺在喀什市中心，是新疆规模最大的清真寺之一，有几百年的历史。土黄色的门楼、成排的廊柱、院子里的老树，建筑本身很有看头。寺前的艾提尕尔广场是喀什的市中心，白天人来人往，节日时更热闹。非礼拜时间可以购票参观，进去要注意着装得体、保持安静。

The Id Kah Mosque stands in the centre of Kashgar, one of the largest mosques in Xinjiang and several centuries old. Its ochre gateway, rows of pillars and old trees in the courtyard are handsome in themselves. The square in front is the city's heart, busy by day and livelier still on festivals. Outside prayer times you can buy a ticket to visit; inside, dress modestly and keep quiet.

吾斯塘博依路上的这家老茶馆开了一百多年，是喀什最有名的一家。上到二楼，盘腿坐在土炕上，点一壶砖茶（或药茶），配几块馕，看当地的老人喝茶、聊天、弹热瓦普、唱歌，有人兴起还会跳舞。茶不贵，坐一下午都行，是体验喀什日常生活最好的地方之一。渴了续水、饿了可以再要点干果点心。

On Ustangboy Road, this tea house has been open for more than a hundred years and is the best known in Kashgar. Up to the first floor, sit cross-legged on the raised platform, order a pot of brick tea (or herbal tea) with a few pieces of naan, and watch the local elders drink, talk, play the rawap and sing — and dance if the mood takes them. Tea is cheap and you can sit all afternoon; it is one of the best ways to meet everyday Kashgar. Top up the water when it runs low, and order nuts and pastries if hungry.

吾斯塘博依一带是喀什的老手工艺区，铜器铺、陶器铺、乐器铺、木器铺一家挨一家，师傅就坐在门口敲铜、拉琴、雕木头，叮叮当当响成一片。这里能买到手工的铜壶、热瓦普、都塔尔、木碗、花帽这些很有民族特色的东西。价钱可以商量，但也要看手艺和材质，太重的不方便带。

The Ustangboy area is Kashgar's old crafts quarter, with copper shops, pottery, instrument-makers and woodworkers in a row, the masters sitting at their doors hammering copper, tuning strings and carving wood, a clangour up and down the street. Here you can buy handmade copper pots, rawaps, dutars, wooden bowls and embroidered caps — pieces of strong local character. Prices can be negotiated, but judge by craft and material, and mind how heavy things are to carry.

喀什大巴扎（中西亚国际贸易市场）是老城东边的一个大集市，几千个摊位，卖干果、坚果、地毯、丝绸、铜器、乐器、花帽、刀具（管制刀具不能带上飞机，注意），从早到晚都热闹。这里能买到和田大枣、巴旦木、葡萄干、无花果干这些新疆特产，也能买到中亚风格的东西。周日的大巴扎最热闹，人挤人。

The Grand Bazaar lies east of the old town: thousands of stalls selling dried and shelled fruit, carpets, silk, copperware, instruments, caps and knives (regulated knives cannot go on a plane — beware), busy from morning to night. Here you find Xinjiang specialities — Hotan dates, almonds, raisins, dried figs — and goods in a Central Asian style. Sundays are the busiest, packed shoulder to shoulder.

喀什的好吃太多：烤包子（samsa）是羊肉馅的，贴在馕坑里烤，皮酥肉香，出炉就着热吃最好；缸子肉是把带骨羊肉放在搪瓷缸里，加胡萝卜、鹰嘴豆慢慢炖，汤鲜肉烂，配馕吃；还有手抓饭（抓饭）、烤羊肉串、烤全羊、拉条子、曲曲（馄饨）、酸奶疙瘩。口味偏咸香、多用羊肉，不吃羊肉的要提前说明。夜市一带摊子多，随吃随点。

Kashgar has too much good food to list: baked samsa, stuffed with lamb and cooked against the walls of a tandoor, flaky outside and rich within, best eaten hot from the oven; tea-braised lamb, bone-in mutton in an enamel mug slow-cooked with carrot and chickpea into a rich broth to eat with naan; and pilaf, grilled lamb skewers, whole roast lamb, hand-pulled noodles, qushqush (dumplings) and dried-yoghurt balls. The flavour is savoury and mutton-heavy — say so in advance if you do not eat lamb. The night-market area has stall after stall.

夜里的喀什古城是另一副面孔：暖黄的灯光打在土墙上，巷子安静下来，只有偶尔走过的脚步声；而汗巴扎（美食街/夜市）一带灯红酒绿，烤肉的香味、手鼓和热瓦普的声音、跳舞的人群混在一起，非常热闹。可以再逛一次古城，找家小店喝碗酸奶、吃个冰淇淋，给一天收个尾。

At night Kashgar's old town shows another face: warm yellow light on the earth walls, the lanes gone quiet but for an occasional footstep; while around Khan Bazaar — the food street and night market — everything is lit and lively, the smell of grill smoke, the sound of drums and rawaps and people dancing all mixed together. Wander the old town again, stop at a little shop for a bowl of yoghurt or an ice cream, and finish the day.