婺源一日游 · 油菜花与徽村

篁岭是一个依山而建的徽州小村，房子顺着山势一层层叠上去，家家门前伸出竹竿晾晒辣椒、玉米、南瓜、菊花，秋天一片红黄，叫「晒秋」，一年四季都有得晒，只是秋天最浓。村口有索道（也可以走上去），村里有天街、垒心桥（玻璃栈道）、五桂堂这些看点。春天山下梯田的油菜花也很壮观。旺季人多，早点到能避开团队。

Huangling is a small Huizhou village built up a hillside, its houses stacked tier on tier, each doorway reaching out bamboo poles to dry chillies, corn, pumpkin and chrysanthemum — a blaze of red and yellow in autumn called 'shaiqiu'. Something is dried year-round, but autumn is richest. A cable car runs up (or you can walk), and inside are the Sky Street, the Lei Xin glass bridge and old halls. In spring the terraced rapeseed below is spectacular too. It is busy in season, so arriving early dodges the tour groups.

江岭是婺源看油菜花的第一名，花期在三月中到四月初。站在山顶的观景台往下看，金黄的油菜花顺着梯田一层一层淌下来，中间是粉墙黛瓦的村子，远处是层层山峦，是很多人心里「中国最美乡村」的样子。花季有景区班车，山顶、山腰、山脚各有一个观景台，越高的越开阔。非花季这里就是普通的山村梯田，不必专程来。

Jiangling is the top rapeseed spot in Wuyuan, in bloom from mid-March to early April. From the viewpoint at the ridge you look down over gold pouring down the terraces in tiers, white-walled villages in the middle and layered hills beyond — the image many have of 'the most beautiful countryside in China'. In blossom season there are shuttles, and viewpoints at ridge, slope and foot, the higher the wider. Out of season it is just ordinary terraced hills, not worth a special trip.

李坑是婺源开发得早、也最有名的古村之一，一条小溪从村中穿过，两岸是白墙黑瓦的老宅、石板小路、各式小桥，还有摇橹的小竹筏。村里有大夫的宅子、申明亭、古戏台这些老建筑，巷子弯弯绕绕。商业化程度高，沿街都是小店和农家饭，图热闹方便就来这里；最安静的时候是清晨和傍晚。

Likeng is one of Wuyuan's earliest-developed and best-known old villages: a stream runs through the middle, with white-walled dark-tiled houses, flagstone paths, little bridges and oared bamboo rafts on either side. There are old officials' houses, the Shenming Pavilion and an old stage, and the lanes wind about. It is fairly commercial, with shops and farmhouse kitchens along the street — come here for convenience and life; the quietest hours are early morning and dusk.

婺源菜属于徽州菜系，重油重色、咸鲜入味，讲究用本地山货。糊豆腐是招牌：豆腐、香菇、肉末、笋丁一起勾芡熬成糊，热乎乎地下饭；粉蒸菜是把菜、肉裹上米粉蒸熟；汽糕是米浆发酵蒸出来的糕点，软而有酒香。还有荷包红鲤鱼、婺源绿茶（婺绿）也很local。农家饭人均不贵，菜量大，点菜适可而止。

Wuyuan cooking belongs to the Huizhou school — rich, dark, savoury, using local mountain produce. Braised tofu is the signature: tofu, mushrooms, minced pork and bamboo shoots thickened into a warm stew that goes straight over rice; steamed dishes wrap vegetables and meat in rice flour; and qigao is a rice-batter cake, soft with a faint wine fragrance. Red carp and Wuyuan green tea are local too. Farmhouse meals are modestly priced with big portions, so order with care.

江湾是婺源的老村之一，村口有萧江宗祠、南关雪霁这些老建筑，一条主街串起两侧的老宅、商铺、牌坊。这里的徽派三雕（砖雕、石雕、木雕）看得比较集中，飞檐、门楼、窗棂上都是花样。村子住着不少人，走着走着就进了人家的巷子，很有生活气。比李坑安静一点，适合慢慢看建筑。

Jiangwan is one of Wuyuan's old villages, with the Xiao Jiang ancestral hall and old gateways at its entrance and a main street threading old houses, shops and arches. It is a good place to see Huizhou's 'three carvings' — brick, stone and wood — gathered together, with patterns on eaves, door-houses and window lattices. People still live here, and you wander into their lanes as you go, full of everyday life. Quieter than Likeng, it rewards a slow look at the architecture.

彩虹桥在清华镇，是一座建于南宋的廊桥，因为桥身像彩虹卧在水上而得名，已经八百多年了。桥是木头搭的，上面有廊有亭，可以遮风避雨；桥下有一架老水车，还在慢慢转。桥边河水清清，后面是青山，游客不多，是婺源少有的清静又好看的地方，很适合拍慢门流水。

Rainbow Bridge, in Qinghua town, is a covered bridge built in the Southern Song — over eight hundred years old, named for its shape like a rainbow lying on the water. It is timber, with a gallery and pavilions above to shelter from weather, and an old waterwheel still turning slowly below. The river is clear, green hills behind, and visitors are few: one of Wuyuan's rare quiet, handsome spots, good for long-exposure water shots.

月亮湾在婺源县城到秋口的路边，是星江河拐出的一个半圆弯，河中间一个小岛，形状像一弯月牙，所以得名。站在路边的观景台上，能看到青山、绿水、小岛、白墙黑瓦的村子，还有划过的竹筏，是很经典的婺源画面。这里不用门票，路边一停就能看，很多人在这里等夕阳。

Moon Bay lies on the road from Wuyuan town to Qiukou, where the Xingjiang river sweeps a half-moon bend around a small island — hence the name. From the roadside platform you see green hills, green water, the island, a white-walled village and passing bamboo rafts: a classic Wuyuan view. There is no ticket — you pull over and look — and many wait here for the setting sun.

婺源县城在紫阳镇，是各景点的集散地，汽车站、饭店、酒店多在这里。傍晚回来，可以沿星江河边走走，或者逛一逛老城区的街巷，找家馆子点一桌徽菜：粉蒸肉、笋干烧肉、清蒸荷包红鲤，再来一碟婺源绿茶。想带伴手礼，婺源绿茶（婺绿）、皇菊、酒糟鱼都是当地特产。

Wuyuan town, in Ziyang, is the hub for all the sights, with the bus station, restaurants and hotels here. Coming back at dusk, walk along the Xingjiang or through the lanes of the old quarter, and find a restaurant for a table of Huizhou dishes — steamed pork in rice flour, braised pork with bamboo shoots, steamed red carp — with a cup of Wuyuan green tea. For gifts, Wuyuan green tea, imperial chrysanthemum and wine-lees fish are local specialities.