黄山一日游 · 云海与奇松

汤口是黄山风景区的南大门，山下游客都在这里的换乘中心坐景区大巴进山。私家车、网约车都不能直接开上山，必须换乘。这里可以买门票和索道票、寄存行李、买雨衣和登山杖——山上东西贵，水、零食、雨衣最好在这里备好。旺季排队的人很多，早点来省时间。

Tangkou is the southern gateway to the scenic area, and everyone takes the park bus up from the interchange here. Private cars and ride-hailing cannot drive onto the mountain — you must transfer. Tickets and cable-car fares are sold here, along with luggage storage, raincoats and trekking poles; everything up top is expensive, so buy water, snacks and a raincoat here. Queues are long in season, so come early.

云谷寺是后山的入口，云谷索道就从这里上白鹅岭。索道全程约十分钟，一路上能看到山谷、怪石和不时飘过的云雾，天气好时还能看到远处的山峰层层叠叠。下索道就是白鹅岭，正式的山路从这里开始。索道旺季排队时间长，早点到能少排一会儿。

Yungu Temple is the entrance on the rear mountain, and the Yungu cable car runs from here up to Bai'e Ridge. The ride lasts about ten minutes, past valleys, strange rocks and drifting cloud, and on a clear day layered peaks in the distance. The car ends at Bai'e Ridge, where the real walking begins. Queues are long in season, so arriving early saves time.

始信峰不高，但视野极好，是黄山看松、看石的经典去处。峰上有接引松、黑虎松、连理松这些名松，长在悬崖边上，形态各不相同；对面是石笋峰一带的怪石，云雾一来一散，画面一直在变。清末有人登到这里，感叹「始信黄山天下奇」，名字就是这么来的。

Shixin Peak is not high, but its views are superb and it is a classic place to see Huangshan's pines and rocks. Named pines — Jieyin, Black Tiger, Lianli — cling to the cliff edge, each a different shape; opposite are the strange rocks of Shisun Peak, the picture shifting as cloud comes and goes. A late-Qing visitor, arriving here, exclaimed that only now did he believe Huangshan was a wonder of the world — hence the name.

北海景区是黄山的中心，散花坞、狮子峰、清凉台都在这一带。最有名的是梦笔生花：一根石柱顶上长着一棵松树，像一支蘸了墨、开了花的毛笔立在云里。北海一带看云海、看日出都很好，山上的酒店也大多集中在这里，是很多人住一晚的地方。

Beihai is the centre of Huangshan, with Sanhua Dock, Lion Peak and Qingliang Terrace all around it. The best known sight is 'Brush Pen Blooming': a stone pillar topped by a pine, like an inked brush in flower standing in the cloud. Beihai is also excellent for the cloud sea and the sunrise, and most of the mountain hotels cluster here — where many people spend the night.

光明顶海拔一千八百四十米，是黄山的第二高峰，也是前山后山的分界。顶上有一块开阔的平台，四周没有遮挡，天都峰、莲花峰就在不远处，运气好时云海从脚下铺开。这里也是看日出、日落的经典地点之一，很多人为了清晨的云海住在附近。

Bright Summit stands at 1,840 metres, Huangshan's second-highest peak and the divide between the front and rear mountains. Its top is a broad, open platform with nothing blocking the view; Tiandu Peak and Lotus Peak are close by, and on a lucky day the cloud sea spreads out below your feet. It is one of the classic spots for sunrise and sunset, and many stay nearby to catch the morning cloud sea.

山上的餐厅和酒店就那么几家，物价高、出菜慢，是一顿「填肚子」的饭：笋干烧肉、石耳炒蛋、徽州臭鳜鱼这些能吃到，但价格明显比山下贵。很多人选择自带面包、鸡蛋、坚果、巧克力，坐下来喝口热水、补充体力，再继续走。山下屯溪的徽菜才是一天里正经的一顿。

There are only a few restaurants and hotels up top, prices are high and service slow — a meal to fill the tank: bamboo-shoot braised pork, stone-ear egg, and the Huizhou 'stinky mandarin fish' are on offer, but clearly dearer than below. Many bring bread, eggs, nuts and chocolate, sit down with hot water to refuel, and walk on. The real Huizhou meal of the day is down on Tunxi.

迎客松长在玉屏楼前，树龄上千年，两根大枝一伸一收，像主人张开手臂迎接客人，是黄山最有名的一棵松，也是很多徽州人家的画里那棵。玉屏楼一带视野开阔，旁边就是前山最险的天都峰和最高的莲花峰。这里游客最多，排队拍照是常态。

The Greeting Pine grows in front of Yuping Tower and is over a thousand years old; two great branches reach out and back like a host opening his arms to guests — the most famous pine on Huangshan, and the one in so many Huizhou paintings. The Yuping area is wide open, with Tiandu Peak, the steepest, and Lotus Peak, the highest, just beside it. It is the busiest spot on the mountain, and queueing for photos is normal.

下山回到市区，屯溪老街是收尾最合适的地方：一条宋代格局的步行街，两边是徽派老楼，卖徽墨、歙砚、毛笔、黄山烧饼、茶叶。找一家徽菜馆，点臭鳜鱼、毛豆腐、笋干烧肉，配一壶黄山毛峰或祁门红茶，好好吃一顿。街上还有一间能看徽州老物件的博物馆，转一圈很有味道。

Back down in the city, Tunxi Old Street is the ideal finish: a pedestrian street on a Song-dynasty plan, lined with Huizhou-style buildings selling ink sticks, She inkstones, brushes, Huangshan cakes and tea. Find a Huizhou restaurant and order fermented mandarin fish, hairy tofu and braised pork with bamboo shoots, with a pot of Huangshan Maofeng or Keemun tea. A small museum of old Huizhou objects is on the street too — a rewarding loop.