莫干山一日 · 竹海与民宿

庾村是上莫干山的起点，小镇这几年因为民宿热收拾得很干净。早饭吃本地口味：笋丁烧麦、馄饨、豆浆油条，笋丁烧麦是这里的招牌——里面包的是当季的春笋丁。镇上有座民国时期的老车站，黄墙黑瓦，现在改成文化馆，门口拍照很好看。上山的车从镇边走，自驾的从这里开始盘山路，弯多，慢慢开。

Yucun is the starting point for the mountain, a small town tidied up by the guesthouse boom. Breakfast is local: shaomai filled with diced bamboo shoots, wontons, soy milk and fried dough sticks — the shoot-filled shaomai is the signature, packed with spring bamboo of the season. The town keeps a Republican-era station, yellow walls and black tiles, now a culture centre and a fine photo at the gate. The road up passes the edge of town; drivers begin the switchbacks here — many bends, take them slowly.

莫干山的竹林是主角。步道在竹林里穿行，两边毛竹笔直地往上长，一根比一根高，抬头看竹梢在风里摇，叶子把阳光筛成一条条的光斑。起风的时候整片竹林「沙沙」地响，声音从山这头滚到那头，当地人叫「竹涛」，站在里面能听好几分钟。步道是石头和木板路，雨后滑。竹子长得极快，笋一季就能长成竹子，山里人靠竹吃饭：竹笋、竹器、竹椅。

The bamboo is the leading actor at Moganshan. The trail threads the groves, moso rising dead straight on either side, taller one than another; look up and the tips sway in the wind, leaves sifting the sun into strips of light. When the wind rises the whole forest rustles at once, the sound rolling from one ridge to the next — locals call it the 'bamboo surf', and it is worth several minutes of standing still. The trail is stone and boardwalk, slick after rain. Bamboo grows with astonishing speed — a shoot becomes a culm in a season, and mountain families live off it: shoots, woven ware, chairs.

剑池是莫干山名字来源的地方：传说春秋时铸剑师干将、莫邪夫妇在这里铸剑磨剑，崖壁上现在还刻着字。山涧水从上头叠下来，分成三叠小瀑布，水量看季节，雨后最足。池子边凉快，是山里最潮的地方，石头上长着青苔。崖壁石刻、桥和瀑布凑在一个画面里，人多时也要排队拍照。看完剑池往山上走就是别墅群。

Sword Pool is where the mountain's name was born: legend has the swordsmith couple Gan Jiang and Mo Ye forging and grinding their blades here, and inscriptions remain cut into the cliff. The stream drops from above in three small tiers — the flow depends on the season and is fullest after rain. The pool side is cool and the dampest spot on the mountain, the stones mossed. Inscriptions, a bridge and the falls compose one picture; at busy times there is a queue for it. Beyond the pool the trail climbs on to the villa quarter.

山顶一带是老别墅区：从上世纪二十年代起，上海和杭州的外国人、银行家在山上盖避暑别墅，石墙、壁炉、大阳台，风格有英式、法式、田园式，如今有的列为文物，有的改成了民宿和餐厅。午饭就在别墅餐厅吃一顿笋宴：油焖春笋、腌笃鲜（咸肉鲜笋一起炖的汤，江南名菜）、笋干烧肉、凉拌笋丝，再配一锅土鸡汤。饭后在阳台上坐一会儿，山雾常常这时候上来。

The ridge is the villa quarter: from the 1920s foreigners and bankers from Shanghai and Hangzhou built summer houses here — stone walls, fireplaces, broad balconies, in English, French and cottage styles; some are now listed buildings, others guesthouses and restaurants. Take lunch in one: a shoot banquet — braised spring shoots in oil, yan-du-xian (the famed soup of salted pork stewed with fresh shoots), dried-shoot braised pork, cold shredded shoots, plus a claypot of country chicken. After lunch sit a while on the balcony; the mist often rises about then.

从山脊的观景台往下看才明白「竹海」两个字：山谷从脚下一路铺到天边，全是毛竹的绿，起风的时候绿浪一层推一层，雾天则整个山谷泡在白雾里，只露出近处的竹梢。天晴时能看到山脚的水库和远处的平原。这里不用爬山，从别墅区走过来十分钟。下午三四点光线斜下来，竹海的绿最透。

From the ridge deck you finally understand the two characters for 'bamboo sea': the valley runs from below your feet to the horizon all in the green of moso, waves of it rolling one after another in the wind; in mist the whole valley drowns in white with only the nearest tips showing. On clear days you can see the reservoir at the foot and the plain beyond. No climb is needed — a ten-minute walk from the villa quarter. Around three or four in the afternoon the slanting light turns the green at its most translucent.

来莫干山不进民宿等于白来。民宿多是老房子改的，有院子、秋千、狗和猫，一壶本地茶（德清产莫干黄芽，是黄茶）端上来，坐一下午。想学东西的，跟管家（民宿里负责接待的员工）聊聊竹子：竹编的小筐、竹筒、竹椅，有的民宿有竹编体验课。这部分就是「慢生活」——城市人上山买的就是这个。想动的可以骑车下山兜一圈，山路上自行车多。

To come to Moganshan and miss the guesthouse is to miss the point. Most are converted old houses with courtyards, swings, dogs and cats; a pot of local tea — Mogan Huangya, a yellow tea from Deqing — arrives and the afternoon is spoken for. If you want to learn something, chat with the housekeeper about bamboo: woven baskets, tubes, chairs; some guesthouses run bamboo-weaving workshops. This is the 'slow life' — exactly what city people climb the mountain to buy. Those who need to move can rent a bike and coast down the road, where cyclists are plenty.

傍晚下山，庾村的小街亮起来，民宿客人和本地人都出来吃饭。镇上的馆子做农家菜：笋干烧肉、清蒸溪鱼（山溪里的小鱼）、白斩土鸡、马兰头拌香干（春天的野菜拌豆干，江南凉菜）、笋壳鱼汤。吃完在镇上走一圈，文创小店、咖啡店都开着，比白天更松弛。回杭州或德清的车程一小时上下，别拖太晚。

Down the mountain at dusk, Yucun's small streets light up with guesthouse guests and locals alike. The restaurants cook country food: dried-shoot braised pork, steamed stream fish, plain-boiled country chicken, mǎlántou greens with dried tofu (a spring Jiangnan cold dish), and shoot-shellfish fish soup. After dinner walk the town — design shops and cafés stay open, looser than by day. The drive back to Hangzhou or Deqing is about an hour, so do not linger too long.