洛阳一日游 · 牡丹与石窟

龙门石窟开凿于北魏、盛于唐代，伊河两岸的崖壁上凿了两千多个窟龛、十万多尊造像，是世界文化遗产。最有名的是西山奉先寺的卢舍那大佛，通高十七米多，面容丰满、神态安详，相传是以武则天为原型。看完西山过桥到东山，还可去香山寺和白园（白居易墓）。

Begun under the Northern Wei and at its height in the Tang, Longmen has more than two thousand niches and over a hundred thousand figures carved into the cliffs on both banks of the Yi; it is a World Heritage Site. The most famous is the Vairocana Buddha at Fengxian Temple on the west hill, over seventeen metres tall, full-faced and serene, said to be modelled on Empress Wu Zetian. Cross the bridge from the west hill to the east for Xiangshan Temple and Bai Garden, the tomb of the poet Bai Juyi.

白马寺建于东汉永平十一年（公元六八年），是中国第一座由官方修建的佛寺，取「白马驮经」的典故。寺里古树参天，殿宇一路排开。院子东侧还有一片国际佛殿苑，印度、泰国、缅甸各修了一座本国风格的佛殿，几国风格并排看很有意思。

Founded in 68 AD under Emperor Ming of the Han, the White Horse Temple is China's first state-built Buddhist temple, its name recalling the legend of the white horse that carried the scriptures. Ancient trees stand over halls that line up one after another. To the east of the courtyard is an international quarter where India, Thailand and Myanmar have each built a hall in their own style — an unusual sight, several traditions side by side.

洛阳水席是洛阳最有名的宴席，一共二十四道菜，道道带汤，一道一道端上来，吃完撤一道、再上一道，像流水一样，所以叫水席。头牌是「牡丹燕菜」，用萝卜丝做成一朵牡丹的样子，起源于武则天时期。真不同是最有名的老字号，人少也可以单点几道尝尝。

The Luoyang water banquet is the city's most famous meal: twenty-four dishes, every one of them soupy, brought out one at a time and cleared as the next arrives — flowing like water, hence the name. The lead dish is 'peony swallow vegetable', shredded radish shaped into a peony, whose story goes back to Wu Zetian's time. Zhenbutong is the best-known old restaurant, and even a small party can order a few dishes rather than the full set.

洛阳博物馆馆藏以青铜器、唐三彩、汉唐文物为主，展厅把洛阳从夏商周到隋唐的历史讲得很清楚。上午看了石窟、白马寺，下午来这里正好把时代和器物对上号：那些佛像是哪个朝代的、唐三彩为什么出在洛阳，都会明明白白。

The Luoyang Museum is strong in bronzes, Tang sancai glazed wares and Han-Tang objects, and its galleries lay out the city's history from the Xia and Shang to the Sui and Tang. After the grottoes and the temple in the morning, this is the place to match objects to periods: which dynasty those Buddhas belong to, and why sancai came from Luoyang, all become clear.

隋唐洛阳城国家遗址公园里最醒目的是明堂和天堂两座建筑：明堂是武则天当年的「万象神宫」，处理朝政的地方；天堂是她礼佛的高塔。如今按原位置复建，外观宏伟，进去有展陈，能大致感受盛唐宫殿的规模。登上高处能看老城和新区。

The two most striking buildings in the Sui-Tang Luoyang city site park are the Mingtang and the Tiantang: the Mingtang was Wu Zetian's 'Hall of Ten Thousand Images', where she held court, and the Tiantang her tall tower for worship. Both are rebuilt on their original positions, grand in outline, with exhibitions inside that give a sense of the scale of a high-Tang palace. From the top you can see both the old town and the new city.

丽景门是老城区的西大门，一座高大的城楼，底下是进老城的正门。可以登城楼，往下看整条老街和来来往往的人；傍晚灯一亮，城楼和老街都很好看。从丽景门进去就是十字街，一路是小吃和店铺。

Lijing Gate is the western gate of the old town, a tall tower above the main way in. You can climb it and look down the full length of the old street and its passing crowds; at dusk, when the lights come on, both the tower and the street are at their best. Step through Lijing Gate and you are on Cross Street, lined with snacks and shops.

十字街是老城最有名的夜市，一路支着红灯笼，两边全是小吃摊：不翻汤、浆面条、胡辣汤、烤面筋、炸串，还有洛阳本地的小点心。洛阳人爱喝汤，晚上来一碗热的特别舒服。边走边吃、慢慢逛，一个多小时就过去了。

Cross Street is the old town's most famous night market, lanterns strung overhead and stalls down both sides: 'bufan' soup, fermented-bean noodles, pepper-and-thick soup, grilled gluten skewers and fried snacks, plus local pastries. Luoyang loves its soup, and a hot bowl here in the evening is a treat. Eat as you walk, wander slowly, and an hour slips by.

洛邑古城是紧挨着老城的一片仿古街区，护城河、石桥、飞檐的楼，晚上灯光一亮，水面上全是倒影。这里最出名的是汉服体验：很多人换上汉服在街巷里拍照，像穿越回了古代。走一圈、看看灯，一天的行程就收尾了。

Luoyi Ancient City is a recreated quarter beside the old town: a moat, stone bridges and eaves-lifted buildings that, once lit at night, are reflected all over the water. It is best known for Han-costume rental — many visitors dress up and photograph the lanes as if stepping back in time. A slow loop to see the lights closes out the day.