大理一日游 · 苍山洱海

大理古城始建于明代，城楼、城墙、石板路都还在，主街复兴路从南门一直通到北门，人民路则满是客栈、咖啡馆和小店。白族民居最有名的是「三坊一照壁」——三面房子围着一块白墙，墙上画着山水花鸟。清早的古城人少、光线好，正好慢慢走；街上卖烤乳扇、鲜花饼、酸角汁的摊子很多。

Dali Old Town dates from the Ming dynasty, and its gate towers, walls and stone-paved streets survive. The main street, Fuxing Road, runs from the south gate to the north gate, while People's Road is full of guesthouses, cafés and small shops. The signature Bai house is the 'three wings and one screen wall' — three sides of rooms around a white wall painted with landscapes and flowers. Early morning is quiet and well lit, ideal for a slow walk; stalls sell grilled milk fans, flower cakes and tamarind juice.

崇圣寺三塔建于唐代南诏国时期，中间的大塔叫千寻塔，高近七十米，两边各有一座小塔，成「三足鼎立」之势。三塔背靠苍山、面向洱海，是拍大理最经典的画面之一。塔后有崇圣寺，规模很大，一路往里走可以到苍山脚下；天气好时，湖光山色全在眼前。

The Three Pagodas were built in the Tang-dynasty Nanshao kingdom. The central one, Qianxun Pagoda, stands nearly seventy metres tall, flanked by a smaller pagoda on each side in a tripod arrangement. Backed by Cangshan and facing Erhai, they make one of Dali's classic pictures. Behind them is the large Chongsheng Temple, which leads toward the foot of the mountain; on a clear day the lake and hills are all before you.

苍山有十九座山峰，最高四千多米，常年云遮雾绕。游客常坐的是感通索道或中和索道，上去后有沿山的「玉带云游路」，是一条在半山腰横着走的步道，沿途能俯瞰洱海和大理城。山上一会儿晴一会儿雾，雨后常出现云海。海拔高、气温低，上山要带件外套，走步道量力而行。

Cangshan has nineteen peaks, the highest over four thousand metres, often wrapped in cloud. Most visitors take the Gantong or Zhonghe cable car; at the top a trail called the Jade Belt Walk runs across the mountainside, giving views down over Erhai and the town of Dali. The weather shifts between sun and mist, and a sea of clouds often forms after rain. It is high and cold — bring a jacket, and pace yourself on the trails.

喜洲在洱海西岸，是保存得最好的白族古镇之一，严家大院这些老宅子规模大、雕梁画栋。街边最有名的是喜洲粑粑：用麦面做的酥饼，有甜（玫瑰糖、豆沙）和咸（肉末、葱花）两种，刚出炉最好吃。这里还是大理的「破酥粑粑」和扎染之乡，可以边吃边看白族的院子和手工艺。

Xizhou, on the western shore of Erhai, is one of the best-preserved Bai towns, with large, finely carved mansions such as the Yan family home. Its most famous street food is the Xizhou baba: a flaky wheat cake made sweet (rose sugar, bean paste) or savoury (minced meat, spring onion), best straight from the oven. It is also a home of tie-dye and the flaky baba, so you can eat while looking at Bai courtyards and crafts.

洱海生态廊道沿洱海西岸修了几十公里，专供步行和骑行，机动车进不来。路上有才村、龙龛码头、古生村这些点，随便停下都是湖景。租一辆自行车或电动车，慢慢骑，看水鸟、看苍山倒影、吹湖风，是大理最舒服的下午。骑行要防晒、带水，风大时注意平衡。

The Erhai eco-corridor runs for dozens of kilometres along the western shore, reserved for walking and cycling, with no motor traffic. Caitun, Longkan pier and Gusheng village are stops along it, and every pause gives a lake view. Rent a bicycle or e-bike and ride slowly, watching waterbirds and the reflection of Cangshan in the wind — the most pleasant afternoon in Dali. Sunblock and water are a must, and mind your balance when the wind picks up.

三道茶是白族最讲究的待客礼：第一道「苦茶」，茶味浓苦，意思是人生先苦；第二道「甜茶」，加乳扇、核桃、红糖，意思是苦尽甘来；第三道「回味茶」，加花椒、姜、桂皮，辛中带甜，意思是回味往事。配着白族歌舞表演一起看，很有意思。乳扇是本地特产，用牛奶做成，可以烤着吃、炸着吃。

The three-course tea is the Bai's most formal welcome: the first cup is bitter, meaning life's hardship first; the second is sweet, with milk fan, walnut and brown sugar, meaning sweetness after hardship; the third lingers, with Sichuan pepper, ginger and cinnamon, meaning looking back on the past. It is often served with Bai song-and-dance. Milk fan is a local speciality made from cow's milk, good grilled or fried.

双廊在洱海东北岸，是看洱海日落最好的地方之一：傍晚太阳落到苍山后面，湖面金光一片，对岸的大理城和山影连成一线。镇上有南诏风情岛、玉几岛，还有许多开在海边的客栈和咖啡馆。比古城安静，适合坐着发发呆、看海鸥、看夕阳。

Shuanglang, on the northeast shore, is one of the best places to watch the sun set over Erhai: as it drops behind Cangshan the lake turns gold, and Dali town and the hills line up across the water. The town has Nanshao scenic isle and Yuji isle, plus many lakeside guesthouses and cafés. It is quieter than the old town — a good place to sit, watch the gulls and take in the sunset.

夜里的古城回到最热闹的样子：人民路上摆满小摊，卖烤串、鲜花饼、酸角汁、手作饰品，还有弹唱的歌手；复兴路和小巷里的酒馆、咖啡馆也陆续亮灯。可以吃一顿本地馆子（酸辣鱼、乳扇、凉鸡米线），再慢慢逛、听歌、看夜景，给这一天收个尾。

At night the old town returns to its liveliest: People's Road fills with stalls selling skewers, flower cakes, tamarind juice and handmade trinkets, with singers strumming; the bars and cafés along Fuxing Road and the lanes light up too. Have a local meal (sour-spicy fish, milk fan, cold chicken rice noodles), then wander, listen to music and take in the lights to round off the day.