呼伦贝尔一日游 · 草原与边境

海拉尔是呼伦贝尔的中心城区，也是草原之旅的集散地。呼伦贝尔古城是一条仿清末民初风格的步行街，早点摊、奶食店、超市都在这附近。草原上没地方买东西，出发前一定在这里买好水和干粮、租好车或者跟司机约好时间。城里有成吉思汗广场和呼伦贝尔民族博物馆，时间宽裕可以顺路看看。

Hailar is the central district of Hulunbuir and the staging post for any grassland trip. The Old Town is a pedestrian street in late-Qing style, with breakfast stalls, dairy shops and supermarkets nearby. There is nowhere to buy anything out on the grassland, so stock up on water and snacks here, sort out your car or agree a time with your driver. Genghis Khan Square and the Hulunbuir Nationalities Museum are in town if you have time.

莫日格勒河弯弯曲曲，在草原上转出无数个回环，是呼伦贝尔最有名的一处草原景。看它要上到河边的高地或观景台，站在坡顶望下去，绿草上一道道蓝色的河湾，牛羊散在里面。草原上风很大、日照强，穿长袖、戴帽子更舒服；夏天蚊虫多，带点驱蚊的东西。

The Moergele River twists and loops endlessly across the grassland, and it is Hulunbuir's best-known grassland view. To see it, climb a rise or viewing platform by the river: from the top the blue bends lie one after another on the green, with sheep and cattle scattered among them. The wind is strong and the sun fierce — long sleeves and a hat help; in summer there are many insects, so bring repellent.

草原上有不少牧户接待游客：可以骑马、穿蒙古袍拍照、喂小羊、看挤牛奶。骑马分「牵马走一圈」和「自己骑」两种，第一次骑一定选有人牵着的，安全第一。牧户的草原是私人的，进屋、骑马、拍照前先问一声、谈好价，尊重人家的规矩。

Many herders host visitors: you can ride a horse, dress in a Mongolian robe for photos, feed lambs, watch the milking. Riding comes in two kinds — a handler leading the horse on a loop, or riding yourself; if it is your first time, take the led option and put safety first. The herder's grassland is private property, so ask and agree a price before entering, riding or photographing, and respect their rules.

蒙餐以肉和奶为主：手把肉是清水煮的大块羊肉，用手拿着蘸盐或韭菜花吃；奶茶是咸的，用砖茶加牛奶和一点盐熬；还有奶豆腐、奶皮子、血肠、炒米。草原上蔬菜少，肉多油大，吃不下就别硬撑。热情的主人常会敬酒，喝不了可以说「我以茶代酒」。

Mongolian food is built on meat and dairy: hand-held mutton is a big piece of lamb boiled in water, eaten by hand dipped in salt or chive sauce; milk tea is salty, brewed from brick tea, milk and a little salt; and there are milk curd, milk skin, blood sausage and roasted millet. Vegetables are scarce and dishes are rich, so do not force yourself. Warm hosts often offer a toast; if you cannot drink, say 'I will take tea instead of wine'.

额尔古纳湿地在额尔古纳市边上，是根河、额尔古纳河交汇形成的一大片沼泽草甸。上到观景台往下看，绿色的水草里一道道河湾闪着光，远处是层层叠叠的草原和山影。这里风大、开阔，是拍大景的地方；湿地保护的区域不能随便下去，走栈道就好。

The Erguna wetland lies beside the town of Erguna, a wide marsh-meadow formed where the Gen and Erguna rivers meet. From the viewing platform the bends glitter among the green reeds, with layered grassland and hills beyond. It is open and windy, a place for wide shots; the protected areas are off-limits, so stay on the boardwalks.

恩和是中国唯一的俄罗斯族民族乡，居民很多是俄罗斯族后裔。村里大多是「木刻楞」——用原木搭起来、冬暖夏凉的俄式木屋，配上白窗框、花木栏，很像童话里的小村。这里可以住木屋民宿、吃列巴（大面包）和红菜汤，听一听俄罗斯族的手风琴。安静、干净，是草原上很特别的一个点。

Enhe is the only Russian ethnic township in China, and many of its people are of Russian descent. Most houses are 'mukeleng' — Russian log cabins that stay warm in winter and cool in summer, with white window frames and flowered fences, like a village from a storybook. You can stay in a log-cabin guesthouse, eat lieba (big bread) and borscht, and hear Russian accordion music. Quiet and tidy, it is a striking exception on the grassland.

满洲里是中国最大的陆路口岸，国门景区就在中俄边界上：一座高大的国门立在那里，旁边是界碑和边境线，运气好能看到中俄国际列车从国门下穿过。景区里还有中俄互市贸易区、火车头广场，能看到不同年代的火车头和哨所。这里离俄罗斯的后贝加尔斯克很近，站在观景处对面就是另一个国家。

Manzhouli is China's largest land port, and the Border Gate Scenic Area sits on the China-Russia line: a tall gate stands over the boundary, with a border marker and the frontier line beside it — if you are lucky, an international train passes beneath. There is also a China-Russia trade zone and a locomotive square with engines and guard posts from different eras. Russia's Zabaikalsk is very close; from the viewing point, another country is right there.

满洲里的夜晚是这天最出片的一段：套娃广场中央立着巨大的套娃，四周是大大小小的俄式建筑、洋葱顶、彩灯，中间的俄式餐厅和商店卖套娃、巧克力、伏特加。逛完可以去中苏金街吃点俄式小吃、买点奶制品当伴手礼。这里是中俄蒙三国风情混在一起的地方，热闹、好玩，也是结束一天最合适的方式。

Manzhouli's night is the most photogenic stretch of the day: a giant matryoshka stands at the square's centre, ringed by Russian-style buildings, onion domes and coloured lights, with Russian restaurants and shops selling dolls, chocolate and vodka. Afterwards, the Sino-Soviet Golden Street has Russian snacks and dairy goods for gifts. This is where the flavours of China, Russia and Mongolia mix — lively and fun, and the right way to end the day.