长沙一日游 · 湘菜与岳麓山

湖南省博物馆最有名的是马王堆汉墓：一九七二年在长沙东郊挖出的西汉墓葬，出土了帛画、素纱单衣、漆器和大量竹简，墓主辛追夫人的遗体保存得极好，至今还能看到皮肤纹理。素纱单衣薄得像一层雾，整件不到一两重，是这里的镇馆之宝。免费参观但要提前预约，周一通常闭馆。

The Hunan Museum's fame rests on Mawangdui: a Western Han tomb excavated east of Changsha in 1972 that yielded silk paintings, a gauze garment, lacquerware and quantities of bamboo slips. The body of Lady Xin Zhui is remarkably preserved — skin texture is still visible. The gauze robe, lighter than a single liang and sheer as mist, is the museum's prize. Entry is free but needs booking, and it usually closes Mondays.

岳麓书院建于北宋，是古代四大书院之一，一直办学到今天，现在是湖南大学的一部分。院里的大讲堂、御书楼和两边长长的碑廊都保留着原来的格局，对联「惟楚有材，于斯为盛」最有名。前后都有古树，夏天进院明显凉快，是山里难得的安静处。

Founded in the Northern Song and one of the four great academies of old China, Yuelu still teaches: it is now part of Hunan University. The great lecture hall, the imperial library and the long stele corridors along both sides keep their original layout, and the couplet 'Chu alone has talent, and here it flourishes' is the best known. Ancient trees stand front and back; inside is markedly cooler in summer and quiet for a mountain site.

爱晚亭在山腰，是清代建的，名字取自「停车坐爱枫林晚」，亭子四周全是枫树，深秋红成一片，是长沙看红叶最出名的地方。山不高，从书院慢慢走上来二十来分钟，路两边都是老树。亭子边上有一条小溪，夏天很凉快。

The pavilion sits halfway up and dates from the Qing; its name comes from a line of poetry about stopping the carriage to enjoy the evening maples. Maples surround it, and in late autumn the whole slope turns red — the city's best-known spot for autumn colour. The hill is not tall: twenty minutes at an easy pace from the academy, with old trees the whole way. A stream runs beside the pavilion, cool in summer.

橘子洲是湘江中间的一座长岛，南北好几公里，洲头有一尊巨大的青年艺术雕塑，是长沙的地标。岛上有草坪、橘树和小火车，走路穿岛要一个多小时，赶时间可以坐园内观光车。每周有几天晚上有焰火，赶上就是意外的惊喜。

Orange Isle is a long island in the middle of the Xiang, several kilometres from end to end, with a giant statue of a young figure at its southern tip — a Changsha landmark. There are lawns, orange trees and a little sightseeing train; walking the whole island takes over an hour, so take the shuttle if time is short. Fireworks are held some evenings — an unexpected bonus if you happen to catch them.

长沙的小吃以辣出名：臭豆腐炸得外脆里嫩，浇上辣椒汁和蒜水；口味虾就是麻辣小龙虾，夏夜一盆一盆地上；还有糖油粑粑、米粉和剁椒鱼头。点单时辣度可以调，但「微辣」也比多数地方辣，第一次吃建议先点最低档，配一杯冰的绿豆沙或酸梅汤。

Changsha's snacks are built on chilli: stinky tofu fried crisp outside and soft within, dressed with chilli sauce and garlic water; 口味虾, crayfish in a numbing-hot sauce, eaten by the basinful on summer nights; plus sugar-oil rice cakes, rice noodles and fish head with chopped chilli. Heat can be adjusted, but 微辣 here beats most places — start at the lowest level and order a cold mung-bean or sour-plum drink alongside.

太平街是长沙老城区保存得比较好的一条街，青石板路不宽，两边是灰瓦老屋，中间夹着贾谊故居。街上小吃、茶馆、文创小店和手信铺子挨着，逛起来轻松。往旁边的巷子一拐，还能看见长沙老街坊的日常。

Taiping Street is one of the better-preserved lanes in the old town — a narrow flagstone way between grey-tiled houses, with the former residence of the Han scholar Jia Yi tucked inside. Snack stalls, teahouses, design shops and souvenir stores sit along it, and it is an easy stroll. Turn into a side lane and you see ordinary Changsha life continuing.

五一广场是长沙的商业中心，四周全是商场、小店和奶茶铺，长沙人约见面常说「五一广场见」。地下的国金街连着几个地铁口，天热或下雨可以在地下走。想买东西、喝杯东西、歇脚，这一带最方便。

Wuyi Square is the commercial centre, ringed by malls, small shops and milk-tea bars; 'see you at Wuyi Square' is the local default. An underground shopping street links several metro entrances, so you can walk below ground when it is hot or raining. For shopping, a drink or a rest, this is the handiest area.

杜甫江阁建在湘江东岸，纪念曾在此停留的诗人杜甫。楼阁不高，登上去正好看湘江和橘子洲：近处是江水和两岸的柳树，远处是橘子洲的灯和跨江的大桥。江边有步道，晚上散步的人很多，是长沙人乘凉聊天的去处。

Du Fu Pavilion stands on the east bank of the Xiang, honouring the poet who once stayed here. It is not tall, but from the top you see the river and Orange Isle laid out: water and willows nearby, the isle's lights and the river bridges further off. A promenade runs along the bank, busy with evening walkers — where Changsha comes to cool off and chat.