武汉一日游 · 过早与长江

武汉人把吃早饭叫「过早」，是每天最要紧的一顿。户部巷是最有名的一条小吃巷：热干面用芝麻酱拌碱面，又香又干；豆皮是糯米、鸡蛋和肉丁煎成的一层；糊汤粉配油条，面窝是炸的米浆圈。清早人最多，本地人端着碗站着就吃，跟着学就行。

Wuhan calls breakfast 过早, and it is the most important meal of the day. Hubu Lane is the best-known snack lane: hot dry noodles tossed in sesame paste, fragrant and dry; doupi, a fried layer of glutinous rice, egg and diced pork; rice-flour soup with a fried dough stick; and mianwo, rings of fried rice batter. It is busiest early, with locals eating standing up, bowl in hand — do as they do.

黄鹤楼是武汉的地标，立在蛇山上，正对长江和武汉长江大桥。它之所以出名，多半是因为诗：李白、崔颢都写过，「故人西辞黄鹤楼」「昔人已乘黄鹤去」几乎人人会背。现在的楼是上世纪八十年代重建的，登到顶层可以看大桥和江面，视野很开阔。

Yellow Crane Tower is Wuhan's landmark, standing on Snake Hill facing the Yangtze and the great bridge. Its fame comes largely from poetry — Li Bai and Cui Hao both wrote of it, and lines like 'my old friend takes leave of me at Yellow Crane Tower' are known by heart. The present tower is a 1980s reconstruction; from the top floor the bridge and the river open out in a wide view.

武汉长江大桥一九五七年通车，是长江上第一座公路铁路两用桥，上层走车、下层走火车，桥头堡和栏杆都是中式花纹，很有年代感。桥上人行道可以走，走完全程半小时左右，一边是黄鹤楼和蛇山，一边是龟山和汉阳，江面上船来船往，是理解武汉「三镇」格局最好的地方。

Opened in 1957, the Wuhan Yangtze Bridge was the river's first combined road-and-rail crossing: traffic above, trains below, with Chinese-patterned railings and bridgeheads full of period character. A footpath crosses it, taking about half an hour each way — Yellow Crane Tower and Snake Hill on one side, Tortoise Hill and Hanyang on the other, boats moving on the water between. It is the best place to grasp the city's three-town layout.

昙华林是武昌的一条老街区，靠着蛇山，一边是几十年的老楼和教堂、一边是新开的咖啡馆和文创小店。巷子依着坡地，上上下下，走起来有老武汉的味道。中午在这一带找家小店吃饭，湖北菜偏咸鲜，莲藕排骨汤和武昌鱼都可以试。

Tanhualin is an old quarter of Wuchang against Snake Hill: decades-old buildings and a church on one side, new cafés and design shops on the other. The lane follows the slope up and down, and it feels like old Wuhan. Lunch in this area is easy; Hubei cooking leans salty and savoury — lotus-root and pork-rib soup and Wuchang fish are both worth ordering.

武汉大学的老校区建在珞珈山上，依山傍湖，是公认中国最漂亮的校园之一：老斋舍、樱顶、早期建筑都是上世纪三十年代留下的，青瓦灰墙，一路是台阶和坡道。三月樱花季最有名，但人也最多，要提前预约、限流进校。平时进校参观一般也要预约。

Wuhan University's old campus climbs Luojia Hill beside the lake and is widely counted among China's loveliest: the old dormitories, Cherry Top and the early buildings all date from the 1930s, in grey brick and dark tile, with steps and slopes throughout. The March cherry season is famous and crowded, with advance booking and daily caps; ordinary visits usually need booking too.

东湖是武汉最大的城中湖，湖边修了上百公里的绿道，可以走路、骑车，也可以坐观光车。最舒服的一段在听涛和磨山之间：一边是水，一边是树，路面平缓。湖边有租车点，也有共享单车，骑一段停一段，一下午过得很快。

East Lake is Wuhan's largest in-city lake, with over a hundred kilometres of greenway around it for walking, cycling or the sightseeing shuttle. The most pleasant stretch runs between Tingtao and Moshan: water on one side, trees on the other, and level ground. Rental points and shared bikes are on hand, so ride a stretch, stop, and repeat — an afternoon goes quickly.

江汉路是汉口最老的商业街，从江边一直延伸到市中心，两边是二十世纪初留下的银行、商行和老字号，风格从古典到装饰艺术都有，走一趟像看建筑展。街上商店、小吃和茶铺挨着，晚上灯亮起来很热闹。

Jianghan Road is Hankou's oldest shopping street, running from the river up into the centre, lined with early twentieth-century banks, trading houses and old shops spanning styles from classical to Art Deco — a walk here is an architecture show. Stores, snacks and teahouses sit together, and it comes alive when the lights go on.

汉口江滩是长江边的一片长条公园，从江汉路走到江边就是。江面很宽，对岸是武昌的高楼和黄鹤楼方向，入夜两岸的楼体灯光一起亮，颜色会变，很多人专门来看。江滩上有步道、草坪和长椅，风大但视野极好，是结束一天最好的地方。

Hankou Riverside is a long park along the Yangtze, reached by walking to the river from Jianghan Road. The water is wide, with Wuchang's towers and the direction of Yellow Crane Tower opposite; after dark both banks light up together and the colours shift, drawing crowds. With promenades, lawns and benches, and a big view despite the wind, it is the best place to end the day.